Our First Press - Sean Wood's Article in the Chronicle Herald
We were honoured by his offer to quote us. Thanks Sean!
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When I first sought readers’ opinion regarding excessive alcohol levels some six years ago, responses were somewhat mixed, though more were in favour of lower alcohol than not.
This time around, the half dozen people who responded were uniformly — and sometimes vehemently — in favour of lower alcohol levels.
I thank all of you who took the time to weigh in, and I offer some samples, edited for reasons of space.
Where I was able to obtain permission, I have quoted by name. Others are briefly paraphrased without attribution.
A typical view of those who responded was that higher alcohol content was not to their liking. They agreed that it blunts your palate.
One woman expressed her pleasure that the subject had been raised as it had been bothering her for some time. With a declining tolerance for alcohol, she said one of her main guidelines was to look for wines that had alcohol content of 12.5 per cent or less.
Another noted that he had been complaining that reds of 14 per cent were too heavy and detracted from the eating experience. He suggested the further possibility that increases in alcohol levels are designed to mask deficiencies in quality that would otherwise be apparent.
Reader Bill Hughes of Halifax offered: "I preferred when wines were in the 12 per cent range. There’s something about enjoying a few glasses of wine (with or without food) without getting too giddy. More alcohol simply spoils or overpowers fine foods and numbs the palate and other senses. . . . I in fact, have started to seek out lower alcohol wines.
"Higher alcohol in wines goes along with super-sized drinks, king sized portions and suicide wings. I am with the Mediterranean’s when they explain their food as — ‘less is more’ — and this is how I feel about wine. However, that’s not to say there’s no room for a big fat Barolo — bring it on!"
Bloggers Chris and Shannon O’Shea of Halifax, who call themselves the Unfussy Wine Enthusiasts, wrote: "We could not agree with you more. Being regular wine consumers, we too have noticed the trend in higher alcohol wines especially from places like Australia. Overall, some of these wines are successful and some not so much.
"We do know that the higher alcohol does not, generally speaking, enhance the tasting experience. So what gives? More sugars in the grapes that need to be converted to alcohol? Is it done to prop up what might be considered flat or uninspiring wines with a spark of alcohol? Or maybe it is a trend in winemaking to create a bolder flavour profile. In our minds it is not really needed in most cases."
REVIEWS
Excelsior Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Breede River, Robertson, South Africa, 13%, $18.99, Harvest Wines & Spirits, Bedford: High-grown grapes for acidity combined with lower-altitude fruit for body have produced a restrained yet elegant Sauvignon with hints of passion fruit, gooseberry and citrusy notes on the surprisingly rounded palate. Very much to my taste.
Excelsior Chardonnay 2010, Breede River, Robertson, South Africa 14%, $18.99, Harvest Wines & Spirits: Grown over limestone and it shows with subtle citrus character supplemented by judicious oak, which adds pleasing spicy and buttery notes. Sappy ripe fruit is balanced by zesty acidity, finishing with a pat of butter, vanilla and a trace of hazelnut.
Cecchetti Red Tree Zinfandel 2009, California, 12.5%, $19.99, Premier Wine & Spirits: Good varietal wild berry and peppery spice, moderate alcohol and fairly light on the palate. Lively acidity contrasts with a splash of milk chocolate on the finish. Easy drinking style.
( seanwood@woodonwine.com)
Good value Particularly good value Exceptional value Sean Wood is a wine judge and writer.
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Readers vote for low-octane wine
The Chronicle Herald - February 23, 2012When I first sought readers’ opinion regarding excessive alcohol levels some six years ago, responses were somewhat mixed, though more were in favour of lower alcohol than not.
This time around, the half dozen people who responded were uniformly — and sometimes vehemently — in favour of lower alcohol levels.
I thank all of you who took the time to weigh in, and I offer some samples, edited for reasons of space.
Where I was able to obtain permission, I have quoted by name. Others are briefly paraphrased without attribution.
A typical view of those who responded was that higher alcohol content was not to their liking. They agreed that it blunts your palate.
One woman expressed her pleasure that the subject had been raised as it had been bothering her for some time. With a declining tolerance for alcohol, she said one of her main guidelines was to look for wines that had alcohol content of 12.5 per cent or less.
Another noted that he had been complaining that reds of 14 per cent were too heavy and detracted from the eating experience. He suggested the further possibility that increases in alcohol levels are designed to mask deficiencies in quality that would otherwise be apparent.
Reader Bill Hughes of Halifax offered: "I preferred when wines were in the 12 per cent range. There’s something about enjoying a few glasses of wine (with or without food) without getting too giddy. More alcohol simply spoils or overpowers fine foods and numbs the palate and other senses. . . . I in fact, have started to seek out lower alcohol wines.
"Higher alcohol in wines goes along with super-sized drinks, king sized portions and suicide wings. I am with the Mediterranean’s when they explain their food as — ‘less is more’ — and this is how I feel about wine. However, that’s not to say there’s no room for a big fat Barolo — bring it on!"
Bloggers Chris and Shannon O’Shea of Halifax, who call themselves the Unfussy Wine Enthusiasts, wrote: "We could not agree with you more. Being regular wine consumers, we too have noticed the trend in higher alcohol wines especially from places like Australia. Overall, some of these wines are successful and some not so much.
"We do know that the higher alcohol does not, generally speaking, enhance the tasting experience. So what gives? More sugars in the grapes that need to be converted to alcohol? Is it done to prop up what might be considered flat or uninspiring wines with a spark of alcohol? Or maybe it is a trend in winemaking to create a bolder flavour profile. In our minds it is not really needed in most cases."
REVIEWS
Excelsior Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Breede River, Robertson, South Africa, 13%, $18.99, Harvest Wines & Spirits, Bedford: High-grown grapes for acidity combined with lower-altitude fruit for body have produced a restrained yet elegant Sauvignon with hints of passion fruit, gooseberry and citrusy notes on the surprisingly rounded palate. Very much to my taste.
Excelsior Chardonnay 2010, Breede River, Robertson, South Africa 14%, $18.99, Harvest Wines & Spirits: Grown over limestone and it shows with subtle citrus character supplemented by judicious oak, which adds pleasing spicy and buttery notes. Sappy ripe fruit is balanced by zesty acidity, finishing with a pat of butter, vanilla and a trace of hazelnut.
Cecchetti Red Tree Zinfandel 2009, California, 12.5%, $19.99, Premier Wine & Spirits: Good varietal wild berry and peppery spice, moderate alcohol and fairly light on the palate. Lively acidity contrasts with a splash of milk chocolate on the finish. Easy drinking style.
( seanwood@woodonwine.com)
Good value Particularly good value Exceptional value Sean Wood is a wine judge and writer.
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